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Signs of Winter in Paro: The Chilli-Drying Season

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Signs of Winter in Paro: The Chilli-Drying Season

October 14, 2024

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There’s a moment every year in Paro that tells me winter is just around the corner. It’s not the drop in temperature or the first frost on the fields—it’s the sight of red chillies drying on rooftops all across the valley.

In Bhutan, especially in the villages, chilli isn’t just a spice, it’s a way of life. 🌶️ From our famous ema datshi (chilli and cheese) to the simple curries we cook at home, chilli is an essential ingredient. It’s not an exaggeration to say that no meal in Bhutan is complete without it. For us, chillies are more like a vegetable than a seasoning, and during this time of year, preparing them for winter is a tradition in itself.

Red chillies drying on a rooftop in Paro

In October, as the autumn sun still warms the days, families start spreading out their red chillies on rooftops, letting them dry in the crisp mountain air. The entire valley of Paro becomes a sea of red. Nearly every house has these beautiful, fiery red chillies laid out under the sun, preparing for the colder months ahead. 🌞

Close-up of red chillies drying in the sun

It’s one of the subtle yet unmistakable signs that winter is approaching. ❄️ As I walk through the village, I can’t help but smile at the sight of chillies covering rooftops like a patchwork quilt. Each family’s harvest, drying and waiting to be stored away for the long winter ahead, is a reminder of our connection to the land and the seasons.

In Bhutan, we don’t rely on frying or complex techniques for our food. Simplicity is key. We often make our curry with just three ingredients—chilli, onion, and salt. It’s this uncomplicated approach to cooking that makes the drying season so important. The chillies drying now will become the base for many meals throughout the winter, bringing warmth and spice to our kitchens when the snow settles on the mountains.

Preparing ema datshi — Bhutan's national dish
Ema datshi — chilli with cheese

So, as the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp, I look at the rooftops in Paro and know that winter is coming. But with the vibrant red of the chillies overhead, I’m reminded that even in the cold months, there will be warmth—both in our homes and on our plates.

Another rooftop covered in drying chillies

Here in Bhutan, we’re always prepared, and chilli is at the heart of it all. 🌶️🔥

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